Skylights bring natural light into Seattle homes but require expert installation to prevent leaks in our rainy climate. Here's what you need to know.
Skylights are a natural fit for Seattle homes — when you get 226 cloudy days per year, every ray of natural light counts. But in a city that receives 37 inches of annual rainfall, skylight installation on shingle roofs requires precision flashing and waterproofing that many contractors get wrong.
Skylight Types for Seattle
Fixed Skylights
- Non-opening units that provide light only
- Fewer leak points due to no moving parts
- Best for areas where ventilation isn't needed
- Most affordable option ($300–$800 for the unit)
Venting Skylights
- Open to allow air circulation
- Ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, and lofts
- Manual or electric operation (electric recommended for hard-to-reach locations)
- Higher leak risk due to seals and moving parts ($500–$1,500 for the unit)
Tubular Skylights (Sun Tunnels)
- Small diameter tubes with reflective interior that channel light from the roof to a ceiling diffuser
- Minimal roof penetration — lower leak risk
- Work well in smaller spaces, hallways, and closets
- Most affordable installed ($500–$1,000 complete)
Proper Flashing: The Key to Leak Prevention
In Seattle's wet climate, skylight flashing is the difference between a successful installation and an expensive failure:
Step Flashing
- L-shaped metal pieces woven into each course of shingles along the sides of the skylight
- Each piece overlaps the one below, creating a continuous water barrier
- Must be installed with each shingle course — not added after shingles are in place
Head Flashing (Top)
- Continuous flashing across the top of the skylight
- Must extend under the shingles above the skylight
- Creates a "shingle effect" that channels water around the unit
Sill Flashing (Bottom)
- Flashing at the bottom of the skylight that directs water onto the shingles below
- Must extend over the shingles below — not under them
- The most critical flashing point — this is where most skylight leaks originate
Ice and Water Shield
- Self-adhering waterproof membrane applied to the roof deck around the entire skylight opening
- Required by Washington building code at penetrations
- Extends at least 8 inches beyond the skylight frame on all sides
- Provides backup waterproofing even if flashing fails
Common Installation Mistakes
1. Relying on sealant instead of proper flashing
Caulk and sealant are temporary — they crack, shrink, and fail within 3–7 years in Seattle's UV and moisture conditions. Proper metal flashing is the only reliable long-term solution.
2. Improper step flashing integration
Step flashing must be woven into each shingle course as shingles are installed. Retrofitting step flashing after shingles are in place creates gaps that leak.
3. Insufficient ice and water shield
Skimping on ice and water shield around the opening saves $50 in materials and costs $5,000 in leak repairs.
4. Wrong skylight for the roof pitch
Skylights have minimum pitch requirements. Installing a skylight on a roof below minimum pitch causes water to pool on the glass and seep past seals.
5. Poor curb construction
The curb (the raised frame the skylight sits on) must be built with proper drainage slope and waterproof materials. Poor curb construction is a hidden cause of many skylight leaks.
Warranty Considerations
Manufacturer Warranty
Major skylight manufacturers (Velux, Fakro, Wasco) offer 10–20 year warranties, but coverage varies:
- Glass/unit: Typically 10–20 years against defects
- Seals: 5–10 years against condensation between panes
- Flashing kit: Usually included in the unit warranty if manufacturer flashing is used
Installation Warranty
Your contractor should offer a workmanship warranty of at least 5 years specifically covering the skylight installation. This is separate from the general roof warranty.
Important: Using Manufacturer Flashing Kits
Most skylight manufacturer warranties require use of their specific flashing kit. Using generic flashing — even if properly installed — may void the manufacturer warranty. Always verify warranty requirements before installation.
Cost of Skylight Installation in Seattle
| Component | Cost Range |
|---|---|
| Fixed skylight unit | $300–$800 |
| Venting skylight unit | $500–$1,500 |
| Installation labor | $500–$1,500 |
| Flashing kit | $75–$200 |
| Interior finishing (drywall, paint) | $300–$800 |
| Permit (if required) | $150–$350 |
| **Total installed** | **$1,300–$4,500** |
Should You Add Skylights During a Re-Roof?
Yes — this is the ideal time. Adding skylights during a re-roof is significantly cheaper than retrofitting because:
- The roof surface is already open for flashing integration
- Step flashing can be properly woven into new shingle courses
- No existing shingles need to be disturbed
- One permit covers both projects
- Less labor for the combined project
If you're planning a roof replacement and have considered skylights, there's no better time to add them. The incremental cost during a re-roof is 30–50% less than a standalone installation.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do skylights leak in Seattle's rain?
Properly installed skylights with correct flashing do not leak — even in Seattle's heavy rain. Most skylight leaks result from improper flashing installation or deteriorated sealant, not the skylight unit itself.
How much does skylight installation cost in Seattle?
A complete skylight installation in Seattle costs $1,300–$4,500 including the unit, flashing, labor, interior finishing, and permit. Adding a skylight during a re-roof project saves 30–50% compared to standalone installation.
Senior Roofing Inspector & Content Lead
20+ years of hands-on roofing experience across Western Washington. GAF Certified and NRCA-trained inspector specializing in residential and commercial roof systems.
